Northern Hirnants 2-day backpack

Pitch on Cyrniau Nod

A return to the hills after a few weeks layoff, this was a 2-day circuit of the Northern Hirnant hills to pick up a couple of new Dewey 500m tops, also visiting several familiar 2000-feet summits. The outward route towards Foel Goch and the return from Bwlch y Fenni are the same as our Hirnants trip, as are some fragments of the core of the route, and a few bits of description have been taken from that trip.

Two dry days in a miserable August were just right for this short trip. The views on the first day were plagued by very hazy grey humid air that obscured the neighbouring hills until mid morning but conditions improved on the second day. The route is a mixture of very hard rough moorland and easy paths and tracks.

After slopping through some very wet stuff on this backpack I think my much loved Berghaus Pro-Rush Mids have started to leak: a test is in order now before the dreaded hunt for replacements. In the meantime I have an old pair of Stratos to test as well, they just might still be waterproof.

Full report & photos

Sports Tape and rubbing

Mueller M Tape Zinc Oxide Tape

On my Patterdale & Kirkstone Fells trip last year I mysteriously suffered the worst case of rubbing I’ve ever known. The affected area was a strip around the base of my back beneath the pack hipbelt, most of which was quite sore but one spot in particular was severely rubbed raw right through the outer skin. Rubbing and chafing is usually associated with warm sweaty weather and people generally find that it happens most in such conditions, but that trip was in October and I started out in a quite heavy frost. However there was no wind at all in the valley, I probably sweated a fair bit despite the low temperature. It was puzzling nevertheless: I’ve always felt very slightly irritated in that region in warm conditions, just an itchy feeling not worth bothering about, but this was something else and confusingly it doesn’t happen every time.

I completely eliminated the well known problem of chafing between the legs ages ago: BodyGlide or similar product. One application before setting out from home and that’s it: job done for the whole trip. I tried BodyGlide as a preventative for this back problem and the next few trips (in winter) were problem free, but on the Central Cheviots backpack, the first trip of this year when conditions became warm and sweaty, the trouble resurfaced though mercifully not with the same severity. Lubricant was clearly not the answer.

I decided the only way forward was to prevent any possibility of rubbing from the outset. I tried a solution I read about some time ago: sports tape, aka athlete’s tape or medical tape. I first came across this years ago when a physiotherapist gave me a kit for taping a knee injury but it has many uses in sports. It comes in a bewildering variety of types and I decided on a roll of 5cm wide Mueller tape from FirstAid4Sport, a cotton zinc oxide tape with great conformability.

On the last three trips I taped my back at home before starting out: a vertical strip up the central lower spine and two or three overlapping horizontal strips around my waist as far as the sides. The tape has excellent adhesive, and once stuck down it will not move, no matter how much my clothing or pack hipbelt move about on top of it, nothing can possibly rub directly on the skin. I’m happy to report that I felt no red soreness at all on these backpacks and the weather was often hot, a great result.  Why I’m suddenly susceptible to this remains a mystery but I’ll be taping my back as a matter of course from now on, whatever the time of year.

The tape can be useful to walkers in other common trouble spots involving rubbing. Although I never suffer myself these days, soreness from shoulder straps and footwear are likely candidates. Up-and-down rubbing at the back end of footwear is common and many people typically apply a standard plaster to the back of the heel, but it often moves or comes off - this tape is much stickier and can even be multi-layered if required (is it me or are today’s crappy plasters much less sticky than years ago?).

The sudden feeling of a hotspot on or below the foot could be the sign of an imminent blister, a piece of tape applied immediately will stop any local rubbing. Another use is to tape and support minor injuries. It must have a multitude of uses for temporary kit repairs too.

However the weight of a roll and rarity of use would preclude adding it to the actual backpack gear list, I can’t see any obvious way of taking a small quantity.

The Upper Wye Hills 3-day backpack

Pitch on Y FoelA circuit of the hills of the upper Wye Valley between the Pumlumon range and the Elan Valley, taking in a total of nine new 500m tops.

On the south west side of the Wye Valley, a line of hills stretches from Moelfryn near Rhayader to Llechwedd Llwyd above the confluence of the Wye and the Afon Tarrenig. The south-eastern end was covered in our Elan Valley #4 backpack, this trip traverses the rest of the chain and crosses to the north eastern side of the Wye to visit the two hills bordering the Hafren Forest. The outward leg follows line of the Wye Valley Walk as it traverses the hill country south of Llangurig to Dernol and the return uses forest trails and the path along the Afon Bidno valley.

The route planning technique of linking new little known tops has been satisfying, often producing fine walking in solitude and a few real gems, but it must be said that this route was less successful. Every backpack is enjoyable and it’s always great to be in the hills walking and pitching the tent, but in this case the rewards were pretty thin relative to the effort required and occasional cursing involved. There are good general views from the high ground over this part of Wales but no intrinsically memorable highlights among these summits, although a few of them will linger in the mind for their oddity value if nothing else. I was quite nonplussed by the area on the east side of Pumlumon near the source of the Wye, little did I suspect such land usage in these hills from our previous walks among the high tops further north.

Full report & photos

Southern Arenigs & Waun y Griafolen 3-day backpack

Dduallt pool and summit rocksA new southern approach to the Arenigs range, exploring five new Dewey 500m tops and including a circuit around Waun y Griafolen, the huge shallow expanse of very rough wet moorland that lies at the heart of the region. The route also visits the two old favourites of Dduallt and Rhobell Fawr, the two Nuttall mountains of the southern quarter, and passes close to three other Dewey tops that we have climbed before but omitted on this circuit.

A route for lovers of solitude who desire to avoid the summer hordes, this was another of our 100% successes in that respect: in the entire backpack we saw absolutely nobody at all - literally, even from a far distance, despite the broad spacious views over the region. Even the valley at Cwm yr Allt-lwyd was deserted.

It was slightly surprising to find Dduallt and Rhobell Fawr completely devoid of walkers in such warm sunny weather, but not the tops that encircle Waun y Griafolen. Now this is one badass place for the foot soldier, a vast flatland of fearsome matted heather and tussocks with hidden bogs and trickling watercourses that mandates fine weather and a stoic frame of mind. By judicious choice of line for our crossing at the southern end, we encountered just a short section of this, and a serviceable path avoids most of the rough terrain on the higher ground of the periphery.

Full report & photos

Malham & Littondale Fells 3-day backpack

Pitch below Parson's PulpitA circuit of the fells around Malham Tarn and Littondale, formed from a group of six new Dewey 500m hills and completed by traversing several of the familiar mountains of the area.

A backpack of contrasts in both scenery and numbers of walkers, the well used paths and tracks in the areas of limestone-encrusted greenery near Malham Tarn were positively heaving with day trippers and walkers, but the Access Land areas away from public paths were completely deserted. During the first afternoon on the limestone High Marks, and the whole of the second day on the long moorland traverse of Birks Fell, I didn’t see a single person, even from a far distance.

This western quarter of the Yorkshire Dales isn’t in our top drawer of backpacking regions these days, mainly because much of the region has the general feel of elevated farmland rather than wilderness country, more akin to country rambling and its attendant popularity than the wild backpacking that usually prevails. Nevertheless the extensive limestone geology has endowed it with a special quality that lifts it a few notches above the commonplace and this trip was a highly enjoyable one.

Full report & photos

The Central Cheviots 3-day backpack

View from Shillhope LawA solo circuit around the central region of the Cheviot hills, based on a framework of ten new Dewey 500m hills and including five of the six Nuttall mountains of the region en route. The route covers a variety of terrain and scenery with expansive heather moors, coarse moorland grasses, the steeply incised valleys of the Usway Burn and River Alwin and the wide hill-lined College Valley and Coquetdale. Some parts of the moor are naturally boggy but their sting was drawn by the recent lack of significant rain: easy dry crossings all the way this time.

From leaving Alwinton on Thursday morning until I descended to the River Alwin on Saturday afternoon, I saw only one couple: they were on the principal route up to The Cheviot from Harthope, apart from them the whole area was totally deserted.

I found this backpack pretty hard, due in part to the temperature and humidity which were considerably higher than expected and made slow, gruelling work of the sheltered ascents. I don’t ostensibly suffer from hay fever but I suspect the high pollen index may have had an effect too, at any rate it felt a lot tougher than anticipated.

Full report & photos

Metric stats and Route maps in IE8

IE8 screenshotAlright, people have hinted long enough about my persistence with imperial units in the trip and route stats. I’m sure I’m not alone in thinking that hills and mountains lose something when expressed in metres and it’s not just that the numbers are smaller, it’s something intangible but of a curious appeal when thinking about them. Distances in kilometres don’t convey much to me either in raw form, fortunately I can do an instant mental calculation to get a mileage that means something.

Anyway, after a painstaking period of furious editing I’ve updated every trip report page with metric stats. There are still a few other pages with miles only, I’ll get around to updating those soon.

The next job was to install Internet Explorer 8 and test the site. IE8 is far more standards compliant than its predecessors (hooray at last), but it did require a change to my ‘browser-sniffing’ code to get the font size acceptable:- basically, IE always displays fonts bigger than other browsers and I have to load a different web style to cope with it.

There is one problem though, and it’s not the fault of IE (believe it or not):- it’s the display of OS maps for the trip reports. I use OS OpenSpace, which does not work in IE8 when the browser is operating in ’standards mode’ which is the default. The OS have known about this problem with OpenSpace for a while now but still haven’t fixed it.

In the meantime, to display the OS maps in IE8 you must first tell IE to display the trip report page in ‘Compatibility Mode’, then the OS map should work. You do this by clicking the Compatibility button in IE as indicated by the arrow in this screenshot. It does change the font size back though, so when the map window has opened successfully, you can go back to the report page and turn off Compatibility mode by clicking the button again to restore the font size.

Phew, enough of that, I’m off tomorrow for a good backpack despite the thick heavy humid air!.

The Dartmoor Tops Tour 3-day backpack

View from Great Mis TorA grand tour of the listed tops of Dartmoor:- a second visit to the two Nuttall mountains of the region and thirteen new 500m+ Dewey tops, including two of the small group that top 600m.

A Dartmoor backpack had been on the radar for some time, our only previous visit being a day walk in 1995 for the two Nuttalls. A plot of all the tops on Memory-Map suggested a grandslam of the whole group totalling around 56 miles, an ambitious route for 3 days given the long drive there and back, but one that would take me through the wild and remote heartland and out to some of the distinctive tors for which Dartmoor is so renowned. It would have been more relaxed and comfortable over 4 days, but I had 3 and the forecast predicted fine dry weather in the south - the challenge was on.

The heartland of northern Dartmoor is a vast expanse of domed hills and sinuous valleys dotted with rocky tors, a landscape that can test navigation skills for the unfamiliar. On this backpack in clear and mainly sunny weather, I utilized my compass and scrutinized the map detail and contours extensively, far more than on any other trip for years.

The central region of the northern moor is also famed for its bogs, but the recent lack of significant rain was another enticement for this trip. I encountered only a handful of very brief boggy bits and most of those were not up on the high moor, in fact most of the moorland seemed parched - more of a soft crunch than a squelch.

Full report & photos

North West Isle of Arran 5-day backpack

Pitch on Sail ChalmadaleA fine 5-day backpack in the NW of Arran, including the Beinn Bharrain range of hills on the western side of Loch Tanna, the long wild glens of the north and the high-level path from Lochranza to Laggan.

After a long and hard winter with a significant late snowfall only a week or two before, many Scottish mountains still retained a covering despite the onset of a thaw and we took our flexi-crampons and winter kit. The highest central peaks on Arran did have significant though very patchy snow, but these hills were largely clear and we didn’t need it, in fact after a cold wind on the second day it became really warm with very little wind for the rest of the trip and we walked in base layers in the afternoons. We timed our arrival to coincide with the clearance of a weather front that heralded several days of settled conditions, and the forecast was spot-on: it was sunny throughout until the high grey mist returned on our last early morning walk to Sannox.

Our second trip in the north of Arran and once again the upper glens and isolated hills in the remote heart of the region were completely deserted, a superb area for backpackers and one that makes a powerful and lasting impression.

Full report & photos

RAB Microlight

RAB Microlight Down JacketTime to fill the one remaining hole in my kit list: a very lightweight down jacket for Spring and Autumn. Actually it’s more of a kit optimisation than gap filling.

I already have an excellent Mountain Equipment Lightline jacket, a serious beast for the arctic months that has kept me toasty warm for years, but is overkill for the nights of Spring and Autumn which can be cold enough to demand a good insulation layer but not the real brass monkey temperatures that merit the Lightline. Vivien bought one of these last year and we were impressed by its incredibly light weight and minimalist design for its purpose: no tough outer shell or cords and bobs, just 125g of 650+ down in soft Pertex Microlight. The total weight of this size Large on our postal weighing scales is 320g, exactly the figure stated on the website.

The jacket supposedly packs into its own pocket but I’ll probably use a little nylon stuffsack.

I foresaw an advantage in versatility and overall weight too when used in conjunction with my sleeping bag: I can extend the viable season of my PHD Minim bag, which I regard as a summer-only bag, some distance either side of its previous limits while ensuring I don’t get caught out on unexpectedly cold mornings. It’s a question of optimal distribution of the insulation both for sleeping and sitting up in the tent with my arms and shoulders exposed: if some of the insulation is in the jacket rather than all of it in the sleeping bag, I’m good for both scenarios, and also when popping outside the tent at night. The new arrangement gives a significant weight saving for a worthwhile proportion of the year.

I discovered a mildly interesting thing when buying this online. The lowest price I could find from a normal shop retailer was an offer price of 99.95 at Footprints of Glasgow but there was an eBay shop with a Buy-it-now’ price of 84.95 + delivery. I ordered it from the eBay seller and it arrived today with an enclosed slip from… Footprints of Glasgow!. So… is the eBay shop merely a Footprints web outlet with a different hat on, or is it someone else passing orders through to them?. That’s an increasingly striking trend I’ve noticed nowadays, I often don’t know who I’m really buying from or who is affiliated to who and by what commercial arrangement. When I bought my Berghaus Ortler trousers in Manchester a few weeks ago I literally didn’t know which shop I was in after seeing all the different names and logos outside.