A Hebog Circuit 2-day backpack

Yr Wyddfa range & Nantgwynant from Bryn BanogA short winter 2-day circuit of Moel Hebog and the hills and cwms to the south, including a first ascent of the 553m Moel-ddu, a Marilyn/Dewey top that has eluded us twice before. The outward line is the popular north-eastern approach from Beddgelert, our first ascent via this path, and the return is via Cwm Oerddwr and the excellent riverside path through the Pass of Aberglaslyn. Moel-ddu is tackled as an out-and-back from Cwm Oerddwr: we could see no satisfactory direct continuation to Nantmor.

Our first backpack of 2011, this modest route designed for the short January days felt harder than the figures suggest despite the disappearance of the recent snow and ice and we had little time to spare. The intermittent heavy clouds of the first day gave dramatic skies and cleared away to leave a calm moonlit night on the hills and splendid clarity for the second day with a weak inversion as a bonus.

Full report & photos

Backpacking Stats 2010 and Happy New Year

Stats table 2010

Miles Backpacks Days
Total 442m 14 42
Joint 96m 4 13
Solo 346m 10 29

A belated Happy New Year to all readers and best wishes for 2011, especially those fellow bloggers who have posted about life changes in difficult economic times, I hope events turn out favourably.

14 backpacks and 42 days trekking in 2010 with a tent isn’t bad, considering that we ground to a halt in November with the sudden early onset of deep winter and road chaos. They included some superb backpacks, including the breathtaking Yr Aran and Cnicht circuit referenced in the previous post and another splendid trek on the Isle of Arran.

I was particularly pleased with two linear routes I devised last year: the Blaenau to Conwy trek via the Moelwyns and Carneddau and the Sea-to-Sea via Scafell Pike Lakeland Traverse, both starting and ending at rail stations. Finding new natural circuits is becoming difficult now, I’ll be looking at more possibilities for this type of trip.

Very best wishes to all for backpacking this year.

Season greetings

Just the annual post to wish all readers good fortune for the Christmas period and seriously good backpacking for 2011.

Not much backpacking here for a while, we are waiting for the travel situation to improve - I’m not as brave as some who have made it out to the snowy mountains recently - kudos to them!.

In the meantime, to cheer up the blog a bit and remind me of the conditions at the tail end of last winter, here are a couple of pictures from my Yr Aran & Cnicht backpack, a superb trek and one of the best of all for photos, including a splendid tent pitch and magnificent view of icebound Llyn Edno.

 

Tent pitch below Y Cyrniau

 

Llyn Edno

 

Microspikes and Montrails

MicrospikesThe first significant snow of the season has arrived and thoughts once again turn to traction control. In winter snow and ice we never attempt anything technically difficult, and in recent seasons we have carried - but seldom worn - our Kahtoola aluminium flexible crampons which fit almost any footwear. The aluminiums are a good choice when crampons spend most of their time in the pack and attached only for the occasional section of ice or compacted snow when really required.

The flexies are fairly easy to attach and remove and don’t present any hassle for a significant icy section, nevertheless we often encounter the worst of both worlds: alternating bands of hard snow or icy terrain mixed with bare rock. Walking on bare rock with crampons is excruciating, not to mention the severe wear on the aluminium points, and we usually can’t be arsed to stop and put them on at all, we often slide and muddle our way across the icy bits.

Enter the Kahtoola Microspikes. We have just bought these for this winter, another step down from true crampons. These are small stainless steel spikes mounted on a chain and attached by a simple rubbery stretch harness and are extremely quick to attach and remove. We are hoping these will suffice for most of the snow and ice we encounter and they might actually be used!. The steel teeth are very small and walking should be quite comfortable on the bare hard bits, including icebound valley paths and tracks.

I believe these sold like hot cakes last winter and were seen in large numbers on the hills of England and Wales. There are other simple products designed for everyday use such as icy pavements, but I find it surprising that a product like the Microspikes that bridges the gap between the streets and hills so effectively has taken so long to emerge.

Montrail StratosOn a related note, I’m on the lookout for non-winter footwear again, by far the most crucial item of kit and more important than everything else put together, a search I dread every time it comes around because all the manufacturer ranges have changed. I often bemoan the demise of the Montrail Stratos, the nearest thing to my perfect backpacking footwear that was discontinued, but in an idle moment I casually Googled them and amazingly turned up a result: an eBay shop in the USA had one pair still in stock and they were my size. The webpage had a list price but invited offers: I made one and it was quickly accepted (I could probably have gone down a lot further, I bet they’ve been lying around in a corner for ages).

They have now arrived, but not before an alarming misreport in the online tracking system that left me speechless in disbelief. The parcel was shipped initially into the US Postal Service and the online tracking worked flawlessly until it arrived in GB Customs, where it stayed for a couple of days until the next entry appeared: it reported a failed delivery attempt. What???. They certainly hadn’t called here. Who were “they” anyway?. I searched the USPS website but could find absolutely nothing to assist foreign addressees, it didn’t even say which British courier would be involved, so I didn’t know who to contact. After much Googling I discovered it was Parcel Force, others have had the same problems.

When I typed the US Parcel Id into the GB Parcel Force tracker (and ticked the box that says ‘Incoming international parcel’), things became clearer: that tracking entry was not a failed delivery attempt at all, it was the parcel arriving at the local depot and its status was ‘Awaiting payment of charges’. Of all the stupid messages a tracker could report… words fail me.

Southern Carneddau 2-day backpack

Pen Llithrig y Wrach from Creigiau GleisionA 2-day circuit of the Southern Carneddau mountains that form the northern side of the Ogwen valley between Ogwen and Capel Curig.

The route along the valley joining the two ends follows Penrhyn’s old road, now a pleasant track shadowing the Afon Llugwy below the mountains on the southern side. By tackling this first on the outward leg, I delayed my ascent into Cwm Lloer and gave the mist time to clear most of the high summits on the northern side.

The cold northerly weather stream polished the views to excellent clarity but was initially a turbulent system, still prone to feeding in the odd rogue shower before pressure rose for a crystal clear second day. It had produced the first very light scattering of snow on the dome of Carnedd Llewelyn this season along with dramatic skies and a very cold night.

Full report & photos

Sea to sea via Scafell Pike Lakeland traverse 4-day backpack

Inversion from Harter Fell A 4-day linear traverse of the western Lake District fells, starting and ending at Silecroft and St. Bees rail stations.

Overshadowing Silecroft, Black Combe is almost always tackled in isolation as a day walk, but from the inner southerly fells we have often seen it as a natural approach that would form an unusual and fine Lake District traverse from the far south west. This approach links to the major central mountains via Whitfell and the Ulpha fells, a seldom trodden and underrated area where solitude is almost guaranteed, and crosses Harter Fell to climb the Scafell massif via Eskdale.

The return line crosses Great Gable and Kirk Fell to follow the chain of summits heading westwards from Pillar to Iron Crag, finally ascending the most westerly outlier of Dent and leaving a pleasant walk along lanes to the footpath into St. Bees. The ascent of Scafell Pike gives the traverse a satisfaction of concept: sea-to-sea via the highest point in England.

The weather conditions on this trip were unusual to say the least. On days two and three there was a constant cloud inversion that persisted all day but varied in height, giving glorious spectacle and superb clarity when walking the high summits but with the penalty of persistent dank mist in between. The sunlit tops brought a late taste of warm summer walking and just a touch of sunburn, a first for October.

Full report & photos

Eastern Glenkens 3-day backpack

Beninner & ClennochA linear 3-day backpack of the eastern Glenkens range of hills in the Southern Uplands, starting from the Green Well of Scotland north of Carsphairn village and ending at St. John’s Town of Dalry.

The route follows the Water of Deugh to the foot of Willieanna to ascend via Dunool and Black Shoulder to Cairnsmore of Carsphairn, crossing the remote northern glen via Clennoch bothy to Windy Standard. It then traverses the high ground via the hills of Alhang and Alwhat to Meikledodd Hill and descends to pick up the Southern Upland Way (SUW) at Polskeoch bothy, leading easily to Dalry via Benbrack and Manquhill Hill.

The forecast predicted two days of clear conditions driven by a keen northerly airstream followed by a lacklustre third day, ideal for this route where the high hills dominate first and the easy lower SUW walking forms the return leg. It was spot-on: the clarity required to bring out the best of these little frequented hills - the spacious distant views - was superb. The first night was a very early taste of a winter camp too: a thick crunching frost and platelets of ice sliding from the flysheet.

We parked in Dalry and took the 520 bus to Green Well of Scotland, an easy journey of 18 minutes on the A713. The former Clachan Inn was still proudly displaying its legend “Home of Southern Upland Way.com” above the bleak metal shutters and “For Sale” sign.

Full report & photos

Blaenau to Conwy: Moelwyns–Carneddau traverse 3-day backpack

Llyn CowlydA fine linear traverse of the mountains on the west side of the Conwy valley, starting and finishing at Blaenau Ffestiniog and Conwy rail stations.

The route follows the Moelwyns / Ysgafell Wen range to Moel Siabod and crosses via Capel Curig to the eastern Carneddau at Llyn Cowlyd. The excellent SE ridge is ascended to Carnedd Llewelyn and the main Carneddau highway followed as far as Carnedd y Ddelw, where the route breaks away to cross to the northern outpost of the range at Tal y Fan, reaching the Sychnant Pass via the nature reserve.

The route is described as ending at Conwy station, but I parked on the western outskirts of Conwy at Mount Pleasant and walked through the town and across the estuary bridge to Llandudno Junction, the principal station of the locality with a direct train to Blaenau without changes.

Due to time limitations I returned directly along the road from the Sychnant Pass to Mount Pleasant, but a more satisfying finale would be to traverse Conwy Mountain to the outskirts of the town.

Full report & photos

Visor Buff

Visor BuffI’d toyed with the idea of a buff years ago and I began to recall my original thoughts on the standard one: the appeal resurfaced but for protective summer use the advantage of a peak would be lost. Then I discovered the Visor Buff: a standard buff with a built-in neoprene peak.

An article in TGO magazine on summer walking hats prompted us to reappraise our summer headwear, which was past its best to say the least and never was entirely satisfactory. In the midsummer months we had been using standard Nike baseball-style caps for the strongest sunshine. They were satisfactory to cover our heads and they had good peaks to protect the upper part of our faces from direct sun, but they offered no protection for the ears or back of the neck, which seem to have become more susceptible to burning on recent trips despite our efforts with sun cream.

The caps had no chinstrap or other means of securing them properly either, which was not a problem most days but the manufacturers seem to think that blustery winds never occur in summer. Last year after a windy hot sunny day in the Cairngorms and nearly losing the cap, I resorted that evening to improvising a chinstrap in the tent, boring two rough holes in the cap and threading them with a length of Dyneema cord that I always carry. I really don’t like hats at all!.

The first use of the Visor Buff on my Northern Hirnants backpack was a great success. It had a very light and airy feel, and best of all I wasn’t wearing a bloody hat.

I’ve added a short piece here in the Gear & Tech section of the main site.

I’ll still appreciate my Lowe Alpine Mountain Cap in winter but Visor Buffs rule in summer now!.

I’m off this week for the promised bit of summer, Visor Buff at the ready…

Memory-Map: an interesting success for mobile mapping

Send Map operationApologies to addicts of GPS/PDA/Smartphone mapping if this is obvious or old hat, but I was able to help a correspondent of mine recently in a quite unexpected way (I don’t own any GPS or mobile mapping devices at all but I’m really into mapping on a PC). It may be interesting to others in the same predicament.

He set out on a walking holiday and was dismayed to find that he hadn’t brought the required maps. Time was of the essence and there was no question of obtaining them at the destination. Then he had an idea, albeit a very long shot he thought:- knowing that I run Memory-Map (MM), and suspecting that I monitor my computers pretty much all the time when not out backpacking (I do), he sent me an email with the approximate grid references of the top-left and bottom-right corners of the map areas covering his intended walks. The idea was that I could extract just those map areas in the MM software and return them as email attachments, where the MM application running on his Smartphone could load them.

I picked up the email within minutes of its dispatch and I must say I was sceptical at first: the process seemed too easy for what he was planning and would surely fail at one end or the other.
The method he specified was to use the MM menu command: Mobile Device — Send Visible Map Portion… to create the map file on hard disk. It was a non-starter: on my MM installation, most of the commands on that menu are dimmed and unavailable, presumably because I have no mobile device set up or because the Microsoft ActiveSync service is disabled.

Thinking about it for a few minutes, I was sure MM must have the required capability even without a mobile device or service connected. Mobiles often have SD cards for extensible storage and we may want to write map sections directly on those. I remembered a technique whereby a closed route is drawn around a map area, enabling it to be digitally extracted, and I soon found the method:- right-click the route — Operations — Send enclosed map to Mobile Device…. This context command was enabled, and the resulting dialog gave the option to save to ‘Storage card on PC’. In fact it’s a standard Save dialog and you can save the map file anywhere.

Half the battle won!. Actually I suspected less than half: the real problems were more likely to be in software at his end. I emailed the map files one at a time and sure enough, a while later he reported that the maps had been received and successfully loaded onto the Smartphone. Now that did surprise me. I was expecting MM to stonewall us at his end, but not so, I could freely send him my map sections.

So there it is, a satisfying, if not entirely comprehensible (to me), success.